Grand Seminar 2014

Natalia Krupkin

Versatility of Silica in Cosmetic Formulations: Types, Properties, Selection, Benefits

Designing a cosmetic formulation can be a complex and challenging task for a scientist. Understanding the properties and functionalities of raw materials can make the ingredient selection easier and shorten the development time. The ever increasing demand for improved, multi-functional formulations, challenge to bring new ideas to the market faster and ongoing technological advances in personal care all raise the need for more in depth understanding of individual ingredients’ properties. Silicon dioxide is one example. While being environmentally green with well established safety profile, it provides the formulator with a wide variety of benefits. This unique flexibility is a result of material science and particle engineering. An overview of the functional attributes and their impact on formulation properties will be outlined in the presentation.


Natalia Krupkin received her B.S. degree in Chemical Engineering from University in Ukraine in 1985, M.S. degree in Chemical Engineering from the Johns Hopkins University in 1995 and MBA from the Loyola University in 2006. She joined W.R. Grace and Co.-Conn in 1988 working in the Corporate Research Center first and then in the Materials Technology group of Grace Davison. She is currently leading Technical Service and Application Development Group for Consumer Applications.

Phil Cotrell

Sulfate Free Chemistries and Formulation Science

Personal cleansing products based on sulfate free chemistries are quickly emerging as one of the fastest growing areas in the personal care marketplace. While the debate continues in the scientific community whether sulfates are truly harmful, the consumer image of these ingredients is continually growing more negative. This has stimulated the introduction of a flood of new “sulfate free” products throughout the world.

Formulating these types of products presents a real challenge to even the most experienced formulators as the alternatives to sulfates are usually more expensive and do not perform as well. In addition formulators often have to add complex polymer packages to achieve the desired aesthetic and conditioning properties commonly expected by the consumer.

The purpose of this workshop is to review the state of the “sulfate free” market and identify alternative chemistries and formulation techniques to meet these challenges. Specific topics to be covered include the following subject areas.

• Current market status of sulfate free personal cleanser products
• Identify formulation/technology challenges experienced by formulators
• In depth review of the chemistries commonly used as alternatives to sulfate free surfactants including their chemical structures, benefits and deficiencies
• Performance Vs cost
• Formulating high performance, sulfate free personal cleansers

Additional topics will also be covered per specific inquiries from the attendees.


Phil Cotrell is currently serving as the Vice-President of Technology for Innospec Active Chemicals, located in Salisbury, NC. A graduate of Urbana University with a B.S. in chemistry, He has worked in the personal care industry for over 35 years, including tenures as the Manager of Personal Care Applications for Rhodia in Cranbury, NJ, the Director of Formulations and Applications for the Alcolac Chemical Company in Baltimore, MD, and the Director of Applications for the Cyclo Chemical Company in Miami, FL. During Mr. Cotrell’s years in the personal care industry he has been directly involved in the development and synthesis of new chemistries used in personal care applications as well as the formulation of diverse personal care products. His areas of particular focus include the science of surfactant/polymer interactions for use in cleansing and conditioning applications, active delivery from wash off formulations and the chemistries/formulation of sulfate free personal cleansers.