IOU 2013

Mark Chandler

First Things First: Formulating for Excitement, Then Formulating for Efficacy

A request for the next great skin care product comes down the line from Marketing. The objective may include a target audience, a featured ingredient, and a potential product form and packaging type. Whether this request is well formed or somewhat perplexing, we as Formulators often appear to follow the ancient naval adage, used in Mutiny on the Bounty among other places: "when in danger or in doubt, run in circles, scream and shout." Storms often ensue between Formulators and Marketing as the project moves forward then back, often listing from side to side.

We as Formulators often turn to a tried-and-true emulsion base as an anchor upon which to stabilize ourselves in this storm. Without us realizing, this anchor serves to pull our ship down with it. By using a new and innovative approach to aesthetic design of skin care products (though the key was revealed more than a decade ago in the December 2001 Annual Scientific Meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in a presentation by my departed colleague and friend Dr. Johann Wiechers), development time can be slashed and customer excitement heightened exponentially. More importantly, the broken relationship between Formulators and Marketing can be healed.


Mark Chandler is the president of ACT Solutions Corp (Adaptive Cosmetic Technology Solutions) , a consultancy focusing on speeding development of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products with the goal of enhanced efficacy and aesthetic appeal.

Mark is a veteran almost 30 years in the personal care industry, most of which with the Croda/Uniqema/ICI Surfactants companies as Technical Manager. Mark has had the privilege of working and interacting with some of the finest minds (and personalities) in the industry.

He has taught Cosmetic Formulation for the Society of Cosmetics Chemists (SCC) for more than a decade and teaches on emulsions and skin care formulation design for the Center for Professional Advancement. Mark has given technical presentations across the US and in more than a dozen foreign countries.

Frank Wagner

Defending Chemistry in Cosmetics

Many formulators are faced with the challenge to remove traditional ingredients from their formulations since they are perceived as 'bad' by consumers. The increase in "free-from" claims has sent a surge of ingredient anxiety in the personal care market. However, most of this is based on consumer misperception. Consumers are becoming more aware of the products that they are using and are willing to educate themselves primarily through the internet. Unfortunately, exaggerated or flawed studies are mixed with credible sources leaving consumers confused and often misinformed. This presentation will touch upon popular controversial claims such as sulfate free, paraben free and 'green' trends from a chemistry perspective and also stress the importance of formulation balance. This talk is intended to inspire those in the cosmetic industry to defend chemistry, educate consumers and help alleviate ingredient anxiety in cosmetics.


Frank Wagner of Solvay Inc. has more than thirteen years of experience in the surfactant industry between his time at McIntyre Group Ltd. and Solvay Inc. (formerly Rhodia), where he is currently serving as Research and Innovation manager for home and personal care products in North America. Frank has traveled around the world to both deliver and attend technical training as a subject matter expert in raw materials used for cleaning compounds and personal care products. He has a diverse background in quality operations, customer service, and technical service. Frank received his B.S. in chemistry from Governors State University, where he also studied computer science.