SnL 2013

Cecilia Teran

Stem Cells: Truth, Fiction, and a Path to Functionality

Plant Meristem cells have been accepted as the de facto approach for application of stem cells in cosmetics. As currently marketed, the meristem cell extracts lack of definitive secondary metabolites and hence the ability to provide clear product differentiation.

Advances in cell culture techniques allow for the co-culturing of disparate species. By co-culturing microorganisms with plant meristem cells, we can take advantage of interspecies cellular cross-talk to stimulate the production of specific secondary metabolites.

In this case, we have looked at co-culturing Oregano meristem cells with Lactic Acid Bacteria in suspension culture. Results show that such an approach produces significant concentrations, which is noteworthy considering the negligible quantities typically found in mono-cultured meristem cells.

This study points to a sustainable technology that allows the specific differentiation of plant stem cells, increasing their potency and allowing for clear differentiation both in terms of secondary metabolites as well as product positioning. This is the key to true functional application of plant stem cells in cosmetics.

Bio

Cecilia Teran began her studies at Monterrey, Mexico where she graduated in Chemical Engineer. She then obtained a Bachelor's degree in Cosmetic Science at the University of the Arts London in London, UK. Her thesis was conducted at the Institute of Applied Chemistry and Engineering ITECH in Lyon, France. She began her career as a researcher at Gattefosse in Lyon where she was involved in the development of novel emulsion systems and rheological modifiers.

In 2010 Cecilia began her tenure at Active Concepts, a multinational company with facilities in Lincolnton, North Carolina as well as Milan, Italy and Kaohsiung, Taiwan. Now as the Manager of the Technical Marketing Department she is highly involved in the development of products specifically tailored to meet the distinct needs of the International markets.

Marcie Natale

A Green Process for Innovative Cosmetic Ingredients

Eastman's green biocatalytic process has been used to synthesize a variety of cosmetic esters via enzymatic esterifications at mild temperatures. The esterifications are driven to high conversion by removing the coproduct, usually either water from esterification of an acid or a lower alcohol from transesterification of an ester. The mild processing conditions do not lead to formation of undesirable byproducts that may contribute color or odor. The immobilized enzyme, such as lipase, is easily removed by filtration. The specificity of the enzymatic conversions and the relatively low reaction temperatures minimize the formation of byproducts, increase yield, and save energy. A variety of ingredients produced by this process, and their performance benefits, will be discussed.

Bio

Marcie Natale graduated from Millersville University with a BS in Biochemistry and she received her MBA in International Business from Temple. Marcie began her career at Henkel Corporate Research in the organic synthesis department focusing on defoamers, associative thickeners, and emulsion polymerization of green surfactants. In 2001 Marcie joined Cognis to focus on technical marketing, with an emphasis on green and sulfate free surfactants and additives for shampoos & body care. In 2006, Marcie was recruited by Eastman Chemical Company to lead development teams in the personal care segment. She is currently the biocatalysis platform development manager for Eastman. Eastman's biocatalysis platform was recognized in June 2009 by the EPA. Marcie is a recipient of the 2009 EPA Presidential Award for Green Chemistry in the category of Greener Synthetic Pathways. She continues to develop commercial products by using green chemistry principles.